10/2/2023 0 Comments Darktable focus stackingHowever with Affinity I can edit individual stack layers to remove artifacts.Identify which parts of the image contain sharp edges, which usually indicates that those areas are in focus. Why so much fiddling before stacking? I convert my RAW to TIFF (or if not important, like product pix for eBay, I set the camera to JPG) and then stack with Affinity - save as TIFF (only if the image has importance, mostly landscape) and then do further edits with darktable.īefore that I tried Hugin (terrible results) and Picolay (free and quite good). I haven’t had much luck with Hugin/Enfuse or any of the other FOSS offerings, so I’m testing Affinity, Zerene, and Helicon. Then, I’ll copy those same settings to the rest of the stack, export as TIFF, then perform stacking on some other software and export as TIFF once again to finish in DT. I haven’t applied sharpening or denoise, but that might change. Everything is global and without parametric masks, as my objective is make each image as uniform as possible. For right now I select one image to apply white balance, exposure, Filmic and local contrast and possibly make minor changes using Color Balance. ![]() I’m just getting started in macro and photo stacking, so I’ve been experimenting quite a bit. Unfortunately I cannot show the pictures here because my children are shown and I don’t want to share them publicly before they can decide themselves, but hopefully I will shoot some extra frames next time for having some basis for tests … This was a great hint, it entirely removed gimp for this task. Other than that, hugin did an incredible job with the masking. What about other file formats, hugin itself suggests exr instead of tiff? And if tiff, which compression would work best for the steps i have here? All the files are extremely heavy, and maybe there is some possibility to save some space ….All other settings that make better use of the dynamic range of the image without the curve are either way too dark, or are leading to clipping on the bright neon yellow bicycle helmet of my son … This is the curve I need in addition to filmic to get it at least a little closer. unfortunately I do not get it to something I like, whereas even the OOC jpeg of a single frame looks great in comparison. I had to use a combination of exposure and brightness in the basic adjustments, plus an additional RGB curve, and filmic, and still the result is not what I want. It is difficult to get exposure correct for the result file from hugin.The pictures are dark, and it is difficult to set masks.Yes, I do need to upgrade my computer, but that’s another topic I tried your workflow and I ran into exactly the issues mentioned, and some additional ones. I am using Hugin 2015.0.0.cdefc6e53a58 btw, in case this is relevant. ![]() ![]() I guess that, since this is something pretty usual, there must be some material that covers my questions already and I was just too stupid to find it. Which steps to do in first darktable step? I imagine that everything that corrects the single frame should be done, e.g.would come at the end, I think a linear, high bit depth/float representation should be kept, but that’s just an assumption … What file formats would be best for exchange? As grading etc.I did this before in several ways, but I wonder what is the best way to deal with this: The roundtrip I imagine is darktable (basic development to have something to feed into hugin) hugin (alignment) gimp (masking and stacking) darktable (final development). My workflow for this includes hugin/align_image_stack for alignment, gimp for stacking, and darktable for … And here the question starts. Today my task is to align several handheld shots with a moving object to be able to stack them and let the moving object appear several times. ![]() Therefore I have sometimes the issue that I have to do parts of my workflow outside of darktable. Darktable’s philosophy for now is to not mess with combinations of images.
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